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Hello Friends,
Today I completed a job on my '75 TR6 project. The new mechanical fuel
pump supplied by that company that 'doesn't grow on a rolling stone',
failed. Of course, that was no fault of theirs. I just decided to convert
the fuel supply to electric, just as I did on my TR3b.
As I began that last parahraph, I replaced the OEM pump with a Facet
476087E solid state pump. That unit makes 4-5.5psi. Just right for a pair
of Z-S carbs.
I fashioned an adapter plate from sheet aluminum that covers the port on
the engine. It then extends up to the right to hold the new pump. I placed
a gasket between the adapter and the block thereby sealing the block.
I placed an inline filter between the fuel line and the pump's intake
port. All of that is 5/16" id plumbing. The pipe up to the carbs is about
1/4" od so I bought a replacement fitting for the pump's output. Once
plumbed, all that remained to do was wire the pump.
Fortunately the fuse block has a spare fuse location. I used that option
to power the new pump. I will later add a relay using the original switched
power to activate the relay, so as to keep the pump's current load off of
the ignition switch.
Long story only slightly longer; The pump works great. There are no
leaks. And the car now starts and runs great. Its now ready to head off to
the painter.
Rick
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<div dir=3D"auto">Hello Friends,<div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0Today I comp=
leted a job on my '75 TR6 project. The new mechanical fuel pump supplie=
d by that company that 'doesn't grow on a rolling stone', faile=
d. Of course, that was no fault of theirs. I just decided to convert the fu=
el supply to electric, just as I did on my TR3b.</div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=
=A0 =C2=A0As I began that last parahraph, I replaced the OEM pump with a Fa=
cet 476087E solid state pump. That unit makes 4-5.5psi. Just right for a pa=
ir of Z-S carbs.</div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0I fashioned an adapter=
plate from sheet aluminum that covers the port on the engine. It then exte=
nds up to the right to hold the new pump. I placed a gasket between the ada=
pter and the block thereby sealing the block.</div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0=
=C2=A0I placed an inline filter between the fuel line and the pump's i=
ntake port. All of that is 5/16" id plumbing. The pipe up to the carbs=
is about 1/4" od so I bought a replacement fitting for the pump's=
output. Once plumbed, all that remained to do was wire the pump.</div><div=
dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0 =C2=A0Fortunately the fuse block has a spare fuse loca=
tion. I used that option to power the new pump. I will later add a relay us=
ing the original switched power to activate the relay, so as to keep the pu=
mp's current load off of the ignition switch.</div><div dir=3D"auto">=
=C2=A0 =C2=A0Long story only slightly longer; The pump works great. There a=
re no leaks. And the car now starts and runs great. Its now ready to head o=
ff to the painter.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Rick<=
/div></div>
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