I did essentially the same thing as Lou describes on my Austin Healey and
drove it for many years afterwards with no problems, on the TR250 I started
with all new parts and used Dot 5, no problems there either. I tried to
post to this topic earlier, but don't think it went through. I have been
driving brit cars for a long time, about 35 years, in the old days I had
regular issues with this or that slave cylinder leaking or seeping past the
seals, couldn't say exactly how often, but happened more times than I can
remember, maybe once every year or two.
Since going to silicone about 10 years ago I don't believe I have had any
issues whatsoever with leaks, hard to remember for sure that far back, but
know I have not had issues for many many years.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Lfmaol" <lfm614@aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2013 11:00 AM
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] DOT 5 leads to hydraulic component failures
> I respectfully disagree with the need to flush with alcohol. The reason I
> say
> that is that I have been running DOT5 in a previous DOT3 system without
> the
> alcohol flush for almost 4 years now with no problems what so ever. I
> rebuilt
> both master cylinders and clutch slave but not the wheel cylinders or
> calipers
> as they were/are working great with no leaks, sponginess or binding.
>
> After reading a very good article on Buckeye Triumphs about fluids when I
> was
> doing this, I decided to just replace the 3 with 5. They don't mix at
> all.
> If you put both in a jar, they will stratify in less than an hour with the
> DOT3 (and water) on bottom. So what I did is I flushed the DOT3 with
> DOT5 by
> bleeding the brakes starting from the furthest wheel first, etc. until I
> saw
> dark purple fluid at all four corners. After about 100 miles and 2 weeks
> later I repeated the process and got the rest of clear fluid which was
> minimal
> out.
>
> I believe that if you are not very careful to flush just the lines and use
> new
> rubber you can more damage that good by exposing the rubber seals to
> alcohol.
> Look what E15 is doing to fuel lines and seals and why most car
> manufacturers
> today say it will void the warranty to use it and that's only 15% alcohol.
>
> I think that the best thing you can do to ensure success during rebuild is
> to
> use abundant Girling or other rubber grease to coat the seals and reduce
> friction, it will last as its not soluble to DOT5. Also be real careful
> when
> buying new masters and cylinders as there are lots on cheap imitations out
> there of not the best quality. This is why I prefer to rebuild unless
> there is
> substantial pitting and so far I have had good luck with that approach.
>
> Not arguing, just presenting a different opinion from someone that's been
> there - done that.
>
> Here is the Buckeye article if anyone wants to read it :
> http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/Fluid/Fluid.htm
>
> Lou
> 72 Pimento
________________________________________
6pack@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/mharc@autox.team.net
|