Tightening the bezel ring didn't affect things. That's why I yanked it.
Here are some quick pics:
Assembled config (28K)
http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/6008/wipersw2assembled.jpg
Exploded view (32K)
http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/1892/wipersw1overview.jpg
Another view (32K)
http://img697.imageshack.us/img697/8906/wipersw4overview2.jpg
Detail (37K) http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/5136/wipersw3flats.jpg
There are two problems, here:
1. The inner gray cup (or whatever it's called) behind the dash is keyed into
the dash's mounting-hole slot and connects the visible bezel ring and dash
with the switch body by means of a D-hole. All three parts should remain
immobile so only the shaft rotates when you use turn the switch knob.
Unfortunately, this gray cup is not fixed to the switch body, so turning the
knob turns the switch body, not the internal shaft with it's contacts. It's a
stupid design: the switch body is a weak plastic, so the D-hole of the gray
cup rounds-off the flat in the plastic body (which holds the two in alignment)
as soon as any torque is applied such as happens because of #2.
2. I asked if anyone had unsealed and disassembled the switch body to play
with entrails. The #1 issue aside, the switch just feels rotten, and it
shouldn't take as much force (with it's attendant grating/pinging sounds) to
rotate it as it does. The unit's not sealed, but there's no way to disassemble
it, so I sprayed inside the contact holes and slots in the shaft bushing, and
I put a few drops (few!) of light gun oil down the shaft bushing. That made a
lot of difference. I don't know what it's supposed to feel like, but that made
it serviceable.
Now, I have to rig a way to keep the gray cup from rotating.
I'll post some pics of that when I finish.
Doug Morris, NC
'74 TR6 w/OD
On Dec 7, 2009, at 11:24 AM, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote:
> Doug---You may be able to keep your switch from turning by re-centering the
unit and then tightening up chromed ring on the fascia. If this doesn't do the
job, it's ot too difficult to take it out to see why. It would be wise to take
note of which wires go to which terminal, for reconnection purposes. Once the
unit is out, you may be able to reshape the nylon "key" that keeps the unit
from turning. This will be more clear when you see how this thing works when
'out on the bench'! I did the above to mine several years ago, and it's still
working well, altho admittedly, we don't have to twist the dial much in So.
Cal.! Careful tightening of the chromed nut should hold the back of the
switch from turning.
> Worth a try?
>
> Dick
> L.A.
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