Bill:
Did you set your timing to 10 BTDC with the vacuum retard disconnected?
You
should do this first.
Is your vacuum retard connected to the proper port on your carbs? I have
seen many of these connected improperly, often with the assumption that the
vacuum capsule is a vacuum advance feature, rather than a retard.
Loosen the linkage between the carbs when adjusting the idle, and use
either
a carb gauge or a piece of hose as a stethoscope to balance the carbs.
If it is still idling too fast, check your bypass valves on the carbs.
If
they are not adjusted properly, they will give the symptoms you mention. A
giveaway for these is that often the engine will settle very slowly to idle at
a stop light.
There is more stuff to check after that, but try these first, and tell
us how
it goes.
Vance
Vance Navarrette
Cogito Ergo Zoom
I think, therefore I go fast
-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Couzelis,William M.
Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2009 5:35 PM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Really need help!
Hi All,
Another hard-to-diagnose problem has raised it's ugly head. I have a
'71 TR6 with stock Stromberg's. The car starts OK with the choke, but
will stall if I don't keep gas on it. After about a minute, the idle
starts to pick up and will go all the way to 1400-1500rpm's. One
problem is that I can't get the idle down - the idle screws are backed
out all the way and are not even a factor. When I shut it off, I get
dieseling (I use 93 octane and heat range 12 plugs).
<snip>
Bill Couzelis
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