Also on this topic, be sure your car has the negative wire from the battery to
the body-tub, if correct for your year. I reported on my other thread, but my
brother's problem on his 73 was missing that wire. I'm not sure if he had
yellow lights, but it was cooking his alternators because the headlights
couldn't find enough ground. My 69 doesn't have this wire.
Sloane :)
69-Six
> ALTERNATOR
>
> Make sure what level of output you have from the alt.
>
> I had yellowish lights. By an odd set of circumstances, my original Lucas
> headlamps needed to be changed out. Frankly, I've forgotten exactly why,
> but one either burned out at 130k miles or it got broken, but the bottom
> line was that a 30+ year old headlight with LOTs of use was dead.
>
> I went to Halogen because I couldn't find any tungsten bulbs at * Zone
> Auto Stuff... the result was better light, but not perfect.
>
> I then zeroed in on the charging system. Turns out that Lucas ACR 35 (my
> car is a '74) was only putting out 12.8 volts, plus or minus. I had the
> unit rebuilt. Didn't natter. Pulled out the Lucas and installed a modern
> alternator (I used Delco Remy, Auto ZOne part number 7127 (I think - it's
> a 66 amp GM alternator for an 84 Chevy G10 with the F code 305... mostly
> because that was my tow vehicle at the time). It was almost a bolt in, I
> had to fab a bracket and then re-profile the pivot point on the case.
>
> The result - 13.8 volts even with everything turned on and WHITE
> hedalights. The difference was amazing!
>
> So, check your grounds and all that stuff, but look at the output from
> your charging system. If you have wimpy output, it doesn't matter what
> else you do to address the "problem". Then replace the old tungsten bulbs
> with Halogen... nice difference!
>
> c ya,
> rml
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