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Re: [6pack] The TR6 rear-end clunk

To: Lee Daniels <lee@automate-it.com>
Subject: Re: [6pack] The TR6 rear-end clunk
From: Mitch <ms6453@optonline.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 12:55:48 -0400
Lee,
Probably the most common problem with this drive train is a mild clunk. There 
are so many places for "play" to develop that makes it so hard to find the 
source. 


1. So how much backlash should there be in the diff? I.e. rotate one wheel,
other one fixed, then reverse direction - I've got maybe 5 degrees of play
here.

This sounds about normal. Common causes for diff play are worn or missing sun 
gear fiber washers, crown & pinion wear. In either case a rebuild is in order. 
Even new, these are not quiet or tight units.

2. What about the u-joints? One axle has a wee bit of play in the u-joints -
should they be almost completely without lash?

U-joints should have no rotational play. 

3. It feels like there may be some play in the axle splines on one side - how
much is allowable here?

The axle splines do wear & sometimes greasing them will quiet them down.

4. If there is a problem with the diff mounts, would I be able to detect it
without pulling the diff first?

This is where I think you should examine thoroughly. It's difficult to see a 
crack in the diiferential mounts or upper spring  pan. You should be able to 
pull a tire to get a good look through there. You should also take a look at 
the trany mounts. In reverse the engine/trany torque up in the opposite 
direction. 

If you determain the diif is the culprit I would strongly consider the Infinity 
swap. It's about the same to purchase a rebuilt TR unit but I think the 
Infiniti is a better bang for the buck.

I've got 6 or 8 spare new u-joints, so pulling the axles out and refreshing
those would be "easy" (sort-of) for starters.

Note that I've got wire wheels, but I started there and see that they seem
tight and without play.

-- 
Mitch Seff
Oceanside, N.Y.
75 TR6 SC
http://www.triumphowners.com/384
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