With a helper or two, you can separate the body from the stage you are in
less than two hours. An impact wrench can be helpful on extracting multiple
body mount bolts. You can leave the engine and drive drain in place,
disconnect the body at the 21 different attachment points and disconnect all
chassis to body connections. I always forget the heater valve connection
when I do it. Pulling the entire lower steering column from the rack is
also helpful. You will likely have to remove most of the intake side of the
engine, at least the carbs for sure, for clearance of the R inner fender.
If you leave the doors and all glass on the car, the body will weigh about
600 or so lbs. Totally stripped, you're looking at less than 300 lbs. An
overhead hoist or even a shop crane using the wheel well seat belt mounts
can be used and perhaps a heavy strap underneath the front inner fenders.
If you are in a barn, I imagine you have some hefty rafters to use for
hoisting. Be sure to note all the spacers and rubber pads at each mounting
point when removing the tub. If you're putting it right back on the same
chassis, you shouldn't have any new alignment problems if the spacers stay
the same. As far as shipwrights disease taking hold, you're on your own. I
know most of us don't have the antidote for that poison.
Andy
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