Andy---I couldn't find any four holes tapped holes in the block to line
up with the engine stand arms, so I put the engine back plate on the
block and attached this plate to the stand. The only drawback in having
the engine plate attached is not being able to remove the crankshaft
with the plate on, so some rigging had to be done.
If you want to make a "new" plate, I'd cut a piece of the bottom out,
just enough so the crank could be removed. If you don't intend to do any
crank grinding, just use what you've got.
Dick
E-mail message
From:
apackard68@comcast.net(Andrew Packard)
Hello all:
With the engine out, still attached to the hoist and resting on the
ground, I want to attach it to my engine stand. I found someone's really
good process in which the 4 arms and the engine stand plate are attached
to the block first while still suspended in the air, then the stand is
lifted up to slide onto the rotating point of the plate. The engine and
stand are then lowered to the ground as a single unit.
Where are the recommended connecting points? All the threaded holes
available are for 5/16" bolts. I don't feel safe holding the block in
place this way unless someone else can reassure me this is okay from
their own personnel experience.
My next option would be to put the rear engine plate back on and use
four bellhousing holes to connect to the stand while the plate is
attached to the block in about six places, I believe. I'm leaning
towards this solution. I would prefer having attachment points that can
use 3/8" bolts or larger, but that doesn't seem to be a possibility. I
suppose I could have a engine stand mounting back plate made from
similar size steel as the back plate and have 3/8" or larger holes
drilled in the plate for mounting on the stand. I don't have an old
existing back plate, but I guess I could also butcher one of those with
my larger holes as a third option.
As usual, thanks in advance for your suggestions.
Andy
CD6746L HVDA
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