Dick,
I haven't tried the paint approach - sounds like a good temporary
solution other than the possibility that the paint would be dissolved by
the fuel coming up through the jet? Maybe use a fuel resistant
coating? I did attempt to tin the needle with solder but not too
successful with that. I got aggravated with that pretty quickly as it
didn't flow well and was "lumpy". The needle may not have been clean
enough, but something about trying to heat a spinning needle with a
torch while flowing solder on it was a bit unnerving. I can spend all
day sanding, measuring, testing (repeat if necessary) but didn't have
much patience for doing that! So, I thought it would best to start over
and get it right.
I have the Des Hammill book (very good book, BTW), but I have not had
much luck with his approach to testing mixture and determining what
stations to modify. I'm still working on a better solution for that.
Dale O
Sally or Dick Taylor wrote:
> Dale O---Since you know you "went to rich" when shaving the needles,
> there's a couple of things you can do to get the diameters correct at
> the station(s) that are now too thin. Once you have identified these
> stations, you can (temporarily) give them a thin coat or two of spray
> can primer. This is more easily done when the needle is spinning in a
> drill press. Once dry enough, you can then give the needle a polish job
> with emery cloth, measuring as you go. If satisfied that the diameter is
> correct, this "paint" can be replaced by tinning the area with solder.
> This is trickier with spring-loaded needles, as a special setup to hold
> the needle must be made, but is sounds like you've been down this road.
>
> The manual on How to Power Tune SU Carbs, by Des Hammill, is good to
> have for modifying needles.
>
> Dick
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