John---Purolator makes a decent electric pump for about $40. Since it
puts out more pressure than most carb floats can tolerate, you'll also
need a pressure regulator for a little less $. Both can be mounted on
the inner fender well, which is a convenient place for both electrical
and fuel connections. The pump needs to be mounted on thick rubber, to
damp the vibrations.
The ground wire for the pump can be connected to one of the oil pressure
switch terminals, so in the event that the engine should stop, so will
the pump. Dan M. recommends the Inertia Switch for safety. I find that
the OP switch does what I want.
More details, if you want or need them.
The original fuel pump "hole" can be blanked off. It's easy to make a
plate and attach it to the studs there. The oil filter will now be more
accessable. Or you can leave the old pump in place,
For the money you are going to spend for the above, you could also just
buy a new mechanical pump. Anywhere from $35 for a repro on up to ?? for
an original AC. Tough call?
Dick
From:
jsvannorman@gmail.com(John VanNorman)
Someone posted a question about electronic fuel pumps on the 6-pack
website. With the troubles I've been having with my mechanical fuel pump
(still leaking even after redoing the rebuild), I've been thinking about
this change (I was thinking about it even before this and have been
reading up on it in Dan Master's book).
Those of you that have converted to electric, I'd love to see pictures,
descriptions, etc. of what you did and your set up. I'm running stock
carbs, etc., so I don't need anything too fancy.
John V.
1974 1/2 TR6
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