Randy---Follow the spark, or lack of it. In no particular order, check
the folowing:
If there's no spark to any of the plug wires, next pull the HT wire
(from the coil) at the center of the dist. cap. Hold this wire close to
a metal ground, like the valve cover, and crank the engine. If you have
spark, then the problem is likely the rotor or in the dist, cap.
If no spark coming from the coil wire (and the coil is known to be good)
then next use a test light and its clip, across the two (+/-) coil
terminals. The test light should blink as the points open and close. If
it doesn't, next see if there's power coming from the (wiring harness)
wire to the coil + terminal. The ign. key must be on, of course.
If there's power at the wire on the coil + terminal and the test light
doesn't go off and on with the points opening and closing, the nylon
insulation sleeve on the points post may be mis-located.
If there's no power coming from the wire to the coil+, there must be a
break in this wire. Substitute this wire with a jumper wire from one of
the fuse box connections, or temporarily connect it straight to the
battery + post.
Somewhere along this electrical path something is open, or closed, when
both should be occuring when the engine is cranking.
The "extra" condenser is probably for suppression of interference to the
radio.
Dick
From:
drsandner@earthlink.net(j randolph sandner)
listers,
my car dies a few months ago, towed home. finally have time to dink /c
it.
no spark.
replaced coil, new condenser...........no spark. points correctly
gapped. i have another condenser mounted on the coil mounting bracket.
appears original. there is no mention of this condenser in any of my
manuals, nor dan masters book. any ideas?????????? nice enuf to drive in
nc. randy sandner
74.5 tr6
hickory nc
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