Dave---I appears (originally?) that the distributor pedestal didn't
fully seat, which left the dist. drive dog too high to fit deep enough
into the drive gear slot. Most unusual, as it would normally take a wad
of shims (.090?) between the pedestal and the block for this to take
place. Since I doubt that there was this many shims, what did you do to
get the fit correct?
The shaft must be in two pieces, for the cam that operates the
distibutor advance mechanism to work. It's also possible that I misread
your objective here!
Dick
From:
murr32@shaw.ca(Dave Murray)
Dick, Vance;
Success, I have been able to remove 6-7 degrees of the ~10 degrees of
timing jitter. The largest culprit was the drive dog to drive gear play.
When assembled on the bench the drive dog fit tightly into the drive
gear with no play, when assembled in the car the drive dog did not seat
as far into the drive gear resulting in slop due to the tapered edge of
the drive dog teeth.
Further play was eliminated between the rotor and the shaft (about 2
degrees due to this slop). The dizzy set up consists of a two piece
shaft (a shaft extender attached to the end of the stock shaft) with a
new top mounting plate to hold the magnetic pick-up. The custom made
extension had slop in the rotor mounting. A small bead with the welder
and some filing and all the slop was removed from the entire shaft
setup. There is some marginal side-to-side play at the end of the new
longer shaft that will get removed in the next couple of weeks. I will
have a machine shop create a new single piece shaft (if possible, the
tach drive may be a problem), re-bush the dizzy housing and insert a
bearing in the top plate to stabilize the shaft as much as possible.
Hopefully this will eliminate any remaining jitter. ......
Thanks again.
Dave
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