Mike:
Be careful when talking to machinists. I am convinced that they
will be too conservative in most cases which ends up costing you money
because you are afraid to say no to any recommendations they make.
Completely avoid things like line boring, block decking, etc unless you
have a particular objective in mind BEFORE you talk to the machinist.
Otherwise they will recommend everything in the book "just to be safe".
If the engine needs to be rebored, you can go to 0.040", 0.050"
or 0.060" over and still get pistons and rings. So have your machinist
use the minimum overbore needed to clean things up, and then get the
pistons. Your machinist may be recommending a 0.060" overbore
simply because those are the only pistons he can get from his supplier.
British Parts Northwest, for example, stocks pistons in 0.010"
increments up to the maximum recommended 0.060" over. If your machinist
cannot readily get pistons that are, say, 0.040" over, tell him you will
supply the pistons. He will need them so he can measure them and hone
the cylinders to the final size.
Cheers,
Vance
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mike Pisani
Sent: August 23, 2006 2:00 PM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Engine Block
Hi all,
I started an engine rebuild on a '69 TR6. The block
was bored out to .030 over years ago. And now my
machine shop is telling me that it needs another
boring out, preferably another .030 over. I'm aware
that it's a bad idea to bore these engines out beyond
.030 or .040. In fact, it's seems impossible to even
buy pistons more than .040 over. I've also heard from
a few people that resleeving is risky and may not
produce good results. My machinist also doesn't like
the idea.
Anyone out there have any creative suggestions?
Anyone have a bare block to sell? I live in CT.
Thanks for any advise.
Mike
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
|