Mike C,
I had the same problem and ended up using a long 4-5 ft or so section of
straight steel break line of the same OD (I think 1/4") as the OEM factory.
Measure yours to be sure. I got a hand tubing bender as well. Simply used a
tubing cutter to spin off the flared ends of the brake line. This took a while
as
the steel is much harder than copper tubing! But it did work. I then used a
dremel pointed bit and cleaned out the inner tube ends. If you make a clean
cut you will be able to slide the fuel pump connection fitting and brass
ferrule
over the end. I made a test run with a piece of large diameter wire to get
all the bends, angles, and positions correct before I bent the brake line. It
does not unbend very easily and you do not want to weaken the steel tube.
Flush it out well after bending.
Granted the brass ferrule is not going to bite into the steel very much so
make sure you have a clean true surface before swaging the ferrule into place.
Otherwise you "may" have a leak. Use some fine sand paper to true up the
surface on the tubing end.
Since it is steel, it will rust. So I primed and painted my new fuel line in
silver. That should protect it a little while. Note that the gasoline will
remove the paint on the ends where the rubber tubing connects. I also added a
secondary small fuel filter just before the fuel enters the splitter carb
tubing.
Cheers, MRankin, 1971 TR6 CC61212L (at least that is what the window tag
says!)
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