Aaron,
Since you have the stuff on order...do the rebuild.
It could very well be the lack of travel. You could,
of course, measure the distance that the rod travels.
I believe there is a specified amount. Besides, it's
a heck of a lot easier than pulling the gearbox.
My 2 cents,
Todd Bermudez
CD198L
CF25768UO
--- "Foster, Stan" <stan.foster@hp.com> wrote:
> The symptoms sound very much like a broken pin. I
> drove my TR6 for years
> with a broken pin and it was more or less functional
> but only barely and
> the frequent occasions when it was not barely
> working like going into
> and out of first and reverse eventually chipped
> those gears to the point
> that they needed replacing. At no time did I suspect
> the pin, I always
> thought it was due to hydraulics or worn out shafts
> etc. I never would
> have imagined that the clutch would function in this
> mode but it seems
> like when the pin shears it allows the fork to
> rotate enough to cause
> problems but not (at least not always) enough to
> cause the clutch to
> totally fail.
>
> So if your master and slave cylinders seem ok and
> are bled and you still
> find you have to depress the clutch to the floor to
> get into and out of
> first and it is clear that at times the clutch has
> not fully disengaged
> (and you can generally feel that when it happens)
> then a sheared pin
> would be high on my list of candidates.
>
>
> Stan
>
>
> <snip>
>
> I am aware of the dreaded and frequent broken
> clutch fork pin and
> suspect that might be the cause of my problem. But I
> would think that
> if the clutch fork wasnt pulling the clutch back
> enough that the car
> would have trouble disengaging when coming to a
> stop. Does this make
> sense or, is it more likely that I am missing
> something?
> </snip>
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