Bill:
With the engine off, pump the brakes a few times to bleed off
residual vacuum. Then depress and hold the brake pedal with light to
moderate pressure. Start the engine. The pedal should immediately move
down a very noticeable amount as the vacuum boost engages. If it doesn't
move, or barely moves, the booster is bad.
Vance
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bill & Skip Pugh
Sent: August 19, 2005 7:55 AM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Brake Booster ...
The brakes on Rosey (1970 TR6) have been a constant source of
concern, first I had trouble bleeding them, then we:
Replaced the master cylinder
Replaced the vacuum hose
Replaced the booster (partco rebuild)
Prior to that the brakes required pumping to get a hard pedal, now no
pumping is required, but the brakes require considerable effort
(foot pressure) to stop the car. After a run to Lodi yesterday,
which required some traffic driving, the rear brakes felt warm, but
the front calipers were cold. I am now wondering if, One the
booster I put in was bad or Two the front brakes are not pulling
their share of the load (which should be about 60% ISTR). There must
be a way to test this, I am concerned that the car is not safe
to drive ...
Thanks for the help
--
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 TS16765L
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