Shannon----Both areas you suspect can cause the clunk that you hear. It
is rather common in these cars with lots of miles on them.
You can isolate the sound by gripping the stub shaft where it comes out
of the diff, and rocking the wheel. New splined shaft pairs were still
available the last time I checked. Play in the axle shafts have more of
a "click" as compared to the muted clunk in the differential unit..
If both shafts seem solid enough, put the transmission in gear and pull
on the hand brake. Turn the axles and or the prop shaft to try
duplicating the sound you hear. Expect to find some play here also.
It's difficult to get rid of ALL play without replacing or rebuilding
all of the components. Finding and correcting the biggest offender
usually makes us feel better, only to find the sound still there to some
lesser degree.
Don't rule out something as simple as a tail pipe bumping against the
undercarriage, as the back end first dips during acceleration.
Dick
>From Shannon:
Sender: owner-6pack@autox.team.net From:
shannm2@triad.rr.com(Shannon Muncy) Date: Fri, May 13, 2005, 11:02pm
(PDT+3) To: 6pack@autox.team.net Subject: Yet another rear clunk
question...
Listers...
OK, here's the deal; I've got a bad clunk in my rear drivetrain. I hear
a single, but very solid "clunk" when I first apply power or shift
gears, but not so much when I let off the accelerator. My rear
suspension is new (bushings/springs/diff mounts/u-joints). I've checked
the notorious diff mount and it seems remarkably in tact. From just
playing around under the car, it seems that I've got quite a bit of slop
in the differential or the outer axles.
Could a worn diff and/or spline axles cause this?
What is the easiest way to test the diff?
Or does anyone have any other ideas? The suspension rebuild has about
500 miles on it, but it's always clunked since I've owned it.
Thanks in advance!
-Shannon
72 TR6 CC80068
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