Hey a new Topic!!! Maybe something that has not been discussed in over a
year...
While trying to get my car to idle properly at 850RPM's, I discovered
that the anti-runon valve (new) was, I guess in the "On" position. After
I removed one of the connections to it, I heard a loud click and the car
settled down and began to idle correctly. Then a few turns of the
screwdriver on the idle made the car settle in.
I have another issue that might be related. My brake light is on, and
the oil pressure light won't come on at all. This was due to the major
rebuild. Everything replaced. Is there a way to reset the PWDA without
the HAYNES method of bleeding the brakes? I'm thinking that this would
solve the Brake light issue, then the oil pressure light will come on
(correctly at time of startup) and all this may fix the anti-run on
valve coming on since all of these circuits run over each other at the
oil pressure switch in the block.
Oh Grand Master of the TR6 electrical (Dan Masters) can you find it in
you to help such a helpless fool such as me. I did get everything else
to work right of the bat with your (manual) help, but this one's got me
stumped.
Gene,
1973 TR6 CF10918U now an UO in Pimento.
genehart@att.net
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