John Esposito recommends 30wt non-detergent. I have to admit I'm not exactly
sure what "ordinary
mineral oil" is. Is it the same as non-detergent?
Not to be picky, but I think it's 30wt in summer and 20wt in winter.
I assume this is for an A type since they mention a TR2. Is a J type the same?
Thanks for the info.
Don Malling
Sally or Dick Taylor wrote:
> Sorry about the last post. which excluded the printout of the Laycock
> service bulletin. Hugh Barber volunteered to send it in it's original
> form, once I can get it to him.
>
> Briefly, it shows the use of "regular mineral oil 30wt. for winter use,
> and 20wt. for summer climates".
>
> Herman feels that the hesitancy of the OD to engage when cold, was more
> related to fluid flow, such as oil being too thick. He cautioned that
> electrical connections should all be looked at before going to the task
> of replacing the oil.
> Herman further recommends, if it's decided to change oil, to use
> automatic transmission fluid as the flushing agent. A/T can be used
> without harm, for shor periods in the TR tranny and OD. If the car is
> already up on jack stands, to drain the units, add in three pints of the
> A/T, and run the engine with OD engaged. Use jackstands under the
> trailing arms to avoid the possibility of the axle yokes banging against
> the frame, when the rear wheels are turning.
> After 10 minutes or so, drain it out and go to the recommended 20 or 30
> wt. oil. Residual A/T fluid will not spoil the oil. (In fact, some
> racers use a 10% blend of this stuff) He prefers 20W-50 in the boxes
> with OD that he builds for himself and others.
>
> Dick Taylor
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