I tried the tool on the tapered shock link joint on some rear TR250 lever
shocks. Worked perfectly.
One came out easier than the other, but the hard one came out with a loud
banging pop, and it didn't
feel like I was applying anywhere close to enough pressure to break anything. I
used a standard
length 1/2" ratchet wrench. No tapping -- just cranked on the bolt.
I'll try it on the front suspension ball joint this weekend.
Could be the key to it is to position the ball joint's taper joint deep into
the tool's fork rather
than out on the fork's finger tips.
Don Malling
Don Malling wrote:
> Looks like these Ball Joint and Tie Rod pullers are not as good as I had
> thought.
>
> A list member sent me this picture. This is the exact tool we are getting.
>
> http://triumphspitfire.nl/brokensplitter.jpg
>
>
> The directions with this tool say you can just keep cranking on the bolt
> and the Ball Joint or Tie Rod will pop out. It does not mention the
> apply pressure and tap on the joint method.
>
> That is exactly what the fellow did. His comments...
>
> >I applied pressure only, by tightening the bolt. The upper ball joints on
> >my Spitfire were very tight and the track rod ball joints didn't part
> >easily, either.
>
> So these are not as good as we thought, and we are probably back where
> we started when we thought we were getting aluminum ones. If you apply
> too much pressure, the threads will strip out of the aluminum ones, and
> if you apply too much pressure with these, they will break.
>
> I will use the apply pressure and tap on the joint method and hope it
> works.
>
> If anyone wants out, let me know -- soon. I can send them back. If you
> already sent the check, I'll just tear it up when I get it.
>
>
> Don Malling
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