Geoff---I know others are better equipped to help with electrical
problems, buit sounds like you are getting some back door current that
is feeding the ignition switch. Take a look at everything that goes to
the "green" fuse part of the fuse box. If everything looks OK, start
pulling fuses one at a time to see if you can pin it down to a grouping.
One of these should blow out the red light.
Blown diode in the alternator?
The MSD6A should have its hot (red) wire connected directly to the
battery + and the black wire either to the battery neg. or a known good
ground. Do not connect it to the Green fused grouping.
Dick
From: gameparker@bellsouth.net(<gameparker@bellsouth.net>) Date: Mon,
Feb 14, 2005, 5:19pm (PST+3) To: tr6taylor@webtv.net, "Sally or Dick
Taylor"@webtv.net Cc: 6pack@autox.team.net Subject: Re: Re: Run-on,
after...
Dick,
a small update on the situation. All the wires appear attached to the
oil sender - I don't recall knocking any off, but I check the wire order
next. I paid attention to the
I-can-take-the-key-out-and-the-car-still-runs syndrome (BTW - it now
does it all the time - every single time). The red IGN light does come
on and stay on (bright) when I switch the ignition off and remove the
key. At first today, I was able to kill the engine by revving it and as
the RPMs were falling, the engine would shut off. On subsequent tests of
this nature, revving the engine had no effect - the red light would
continue to stay on and the engine keep running flawlessly - no
dieseling at all. Then I accidentally stepped on the brakes and the
engine died. I found that switching on certain accessories would kill
the engine (brake lights, engine fan (electrical), and blower motor),
while others would not (switching on the headlights for example). Now
the hunt begins - at least I have a few more symtoms to go by.
BTW, I am running an MSD 6A which has always performed impeccably thus
far - just thought it may be significant.
Best Regards,
Geoff Parker
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