Ron:
Whichever bearing and clutch you settle on, I recommend that
you cross drill the clutch fork, and drive in a 3/16" roll pin or
bolt with the shank long enough to go completely through the shaft.
I added this to my clutch setup (I used a roll pin) and
it only took a few minutes. It seems to me that after the time
and expense of doing the clutch, it is cheap insurance to avoid
the dreaded fork pin failure.
When I rebuilt my tranny after bringing home the car, I
discovered that the pin was broken, and the DPO had welded the
fork to the cross shaft rather than repair the pin. The welds
were very poor and had subsequently broken, allowing the fork
to move slightly on the shaft. Sigh. My DPO was a real chowder
head.
Vance
------------------------------
Cogito Ergo Zoom
(I think, therefore I go fast)
TR6 Web page: http://home.comcast.net/~v.navarrette/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of ronald weber
Sent: December 07, 2004 11:28 AM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Clutch & TOB Recommendations?
OK, I now have my TR in pieces as part of a pretty thorough restoration.
Before I get it painted and start reassembling, I'm going to do some
preventive maintanence. Certainly the clutch & TOB is near the top of
the list. In doing some research, I became a little overwhelmed while
considering B&B vs Luk vs Sachs vs Magic Clutch not to mention the Gunst
TOB vs others.
If any of the list participants have any positive or negative comments
or recommendations on clutch/TOB, I'd like to hear them.
Thanks,
Ron W
'71 TR6 CC63207L
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