"positive or negative comments or recommendations on clutch/TOB"
RonW,
I fealt the same way you do now about the clutch/TOB/cross shaft/Gunst kit
after reading many articles and web posts. After much consideration, I decided
to get the TRF Magic Clutch Kit with std Koyo bearing and also got the
additional cross shaft parts and accessories for warranty. I liked the low
spring
pressure on the Sachs as I am not looking to autox and it also lowers stress on
the fork taper pin. Keep in mind to properly position the rear engine plate
with
the two 3/8" dowel studs that they talk about. You will have to remove the
fly wheel to do that right. And while you have the flywheel off, go ahead and
get it turned...very slightly to true. I have heard of others turning the
flywheel too much and increasing clutch pedal travel to release driven disc
from
pressure plate. Then also the two 3/8" bolts in the bell housing for proper
location and stabbing of the shaft in the pilot bush. I have only turned the
wheels
forward and reverse under engine power about 0.2 miles as mine is still on 4x
jack stands but I have no issues so far and the clutch disengauges with about
3/4 pedal travel. It operates smooth...hopefully also when the rubber meets
the pavement sometime in the coming months! I also quickly rebuilt my slave and
Clutch master cylinder with new seals. New SS pipe from master cyl to SS
flexible line to slave cyl. as well.
While you are that deep into it, might as well do it right the first time. My
clutch replacement lead me to checking the thrust washers which I renewed and
also replaced the rear oil seal. Granted you have to drop the oil pan but hey
you got the big stuff out of the way already with the tranny, clutch,
flywheel removed and it is very easy to do. Good luck!
Michael Rankin
1971 TR6 CC 61212L
Gulf Coast, USA
|