Richard----If your play in the shaft isn't excessive, there should be
running clearance between the rotor tip and the cap terminals. Chances
are good that the cap and rotor are mis-matched. Short of replacing them
with "genuine parts" you could file off the brass tip of the rotor to
where there's approx. .020 between it and the terminals. You'll have to
measure the centers to get it correct. For a trial run, you can mark the
rotor tip with a felt pen and briefly run the engine, taking off more
material as you see contact being made against the felt tip marks.
Ill-fitting caps do not always fit the distributor body well. If the cap
is snapped down off center, the rotor has a better chance of striking
half of the terminals. (Notice if all terminals are grooved equally, to
see if this was the case)
The whole distributor moves with the shimming of the pedestal, so this
shouldn't be any part of the problem. Reach a finger down into the
pedestal to see if you can feel some slight up and down motion with the
drive gear. (You should feel some)
Looks like your points wiring is together the right way. If the engine
runs OK, your points insulation/wires are properly located.
Dick
Richard wrote:
Subject: Points and broken rotor button questions
I'm experiencing a fairly common problem which is 3 broken rotor
buttons in 4-5K miles. I've checked the shaft for any signs of wobble
and it is pretty snug with very little play, but it turns freely. The
dist cap contacts are also grooved at the rotor contact points. It's
done this with the Moss dist cap (not Lucas) and an Elgin (I think) from
Napa and three different brands of rotors. Would incorrect shimming of
the dist pedestal cause this?
Also when wiring the points do the wires from the condenser and
and the other wire which goes to the neg side of the coil, fit between
the nylon bushing and the spring of the points. Both wires making
contact to the point spring but insulated to the nut.
TIA and Happy Thanksgiving!
Richard Seaton
RSH17@msn.com<mailto:RSH17@msn.com>
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