> I checked all the pinning and no excessive wear or elongation.
> I blend the lines and do believe there was some air in it. Once
> completed, the clutch will now NOT dis engage so with the engine
> running it will not go into gear and reverse is a still a grinder.
Broken clutch fork pin (the one in the bellhousing). It'll getcha
everytime... you have the exact symptoms. I've had two TR6s both have
suffered clutch fork pin failures (original pins) and both behaved exactly
the way you say your gearbox is behaving.
> My questions: Could the master cly. be bad
Probably not. Pull the trans, and check the pin, most likely you'll get the
bottom threaded section to drop out and you'll have found your source of the
problem. Follow Todd Bermudez's email on this subject and go to the Buckeye
site and Nelson's write-up will give you more detail about getting to and
replacing the broken pin.
It is not a fun job, it sucks, but just dive in and get it fixed. There is
nothing hard about pulling the transmission and replacing the pin, it is
easier than adjusting your valves, it just happens to be a lot more time
consuming and much more labor intensive because you're wrestling with the
gearbox.
Oh, it would also be prudent to check all of the other clutch components
(including those hidden by the bellhousing) for wear... it is a six hour
project and it really is not something to enjoy doing over and over again.
Kai
--
Kai M. Radicke
Wishbone Classics
www.wbclassics.com
Ph: 215.945.7250
Check out the new British Cars Forum:
http://www.team.net/the-local/tiki-view_forum.php?forumId=8
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