Mark
I have tried all the holes.
in a sense this has gone from Bad to Worse
with the bleeding of the line and after
the car has sat for about 10 months. Hence
the question on the master going bad.
Gary Oehrle
Office Phone 408-501-6896
Cell Phone 408-718-1175
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Hooper [mailto:mhooper@digiscreen.ca]
Sent: Friday, August 06, 2004 9:35 AM
To: Oehrle Gary (IFNA COM)
Cc: '6pack@autox.team.net'
Subject: RE: Update on TR6 Transmission--Reverse gear grinder
Hi Gary:
Have you moved the actuation rod pin to the highest hole in the
transmission cross-bar? That gives you the most clutch movement for the
least pedal action. Of course it comes at the expense of increasing the
pedal pressure required to actuate the clutch, but it helps. You could
alway drill another hole higher on the plate and get even more clutch
movement, but that's going to make the pedal really hard.
Cheers,
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary.Oehrle@infineon.com [mailto:Gary.Oehrle@infineon.com]
Sent: Friday, August 06, 2004 12:07 PM
To: rgperry@earthlink.net; sawblade@ptd.net; 6pack@autox.team.net;
tr6_1969@hotmail.com; lang@isis.mit.edu; mjb@autox.team.net;
jamdav@woodward.com; vance.navarrette@intel.com
Subject: Update on TR6 Transmission--Reverse gear grinder
A year ago I posted this problem and since then there has been no time
to address it. little has changed but I have been able to dedicate some
time to it this past week.
Once the car was back running a test drive showed the problem was still
there and possibly worse, In fact besides gear grinding if I attempted
reverse while the car was running, the forward gears where getting
difficult --pedal to the floor and tough to get in gear.
I checked all the pinning and no excessive wear or elongation. I blend
the lines and do believe there was some air in it. Once
completed, the clutch will now NOT dis engage so with the engine
running it will not go into gear and reverse is a still a grinder.
I checked the throw on the slave rod and measured 14mm or 0.551 inches
and per Vance ". . at a minimum, you need 0.625". . . " in a March '04
email.
My questions: Could the master cly. be bad? There is not leaking
of fluid but perhaps the seals are gone and fluid is being forced
past them of the travel is not as effective. The slave is probably
three years old.
Second, The slave mounting is correct and assuming the master is okay,
is there any issue with adding washer between the slave flanges and
mounting bracket? The goal is to make the 0.551 more effective in
dis-engaging the clutch.
Gary Oehrle
___________________________________________________________
I have been a TR6 ('76) owner for many years but my memory of past
problem fixes is failing me. I have had this problem before
but not sure of the fix.
In order to get the car in reverse, I need to turn off the engine else
the gears in the transmission are still spinning and it is a
gear grinder.
Around 5 or 6 years ago, a new clutch and throw-out bearing were
installed (bearing pined as well). Honestly I do not remember if
this was the remedy before or not. Car is not driven that much
to need a new clutch. But I do know the clutch pedal is to the
floor and seems to not fully disengage the engine especially when
it is HOT.
Gary
Gary
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