Bob and all,
I've decided to go with DOT5 on my restoration for a couple of reasons. One is
I am just finishing this car, and I don't want to have to go back and re-paint
the MC area if it does spill over. And second. I'm using it as a Sunday driver
for the first two years, I think I won't have to worry about boiling point or
other highly technical issues that may crop up. Also I'm starting with a clean
system, new everything, so the DOT5 won't be contaminated. But everyone's
situation may be different, and in this area all individuals should do some
research here on what's right for there LBC.
I'm also using a new MC, and I'm afraid of it leaking right off the bat when I
fill it the first time as well. (Along with other fludids I'm sure) So it's a
little insurance here is also what I'm looking for as well.
--
Gene Hart
genehart@att.net
1973 TR6 CF10918 U
(Now UO, thanks j.esposito)
Carmine to Pimento
(thanks PPG & Kojack Autobody)-The
owner looks like Kojack :)
Undergoing body & frame off, frame
and body reunited :)
(thanks patient & loving wife)
(c)(201)981-3327
> On Tue, 6 Apr 2004, Rick & Lori wrote:
>
> > Hey Rick . . . sorry to hear of the MC woes. An excellent excuse to convert
> > to silicone (TRF has the quarts on sale now).
>
> Pardon me if I get serious for a moment...
>
> NEVER, EVER be satisfied with a botched up repair to _ANY_ part of your
> hydraulic system. If the thing is leaking, fix it or get it fixed. Period.
>
> End of serious rant.
>
> As for the DOT4 vs DOT5, I stick with DOT4 for a number of reasons, the
> higher dry boiling point is one. But I can also recommend using a two-part
> urethane type paint in the engine bay to thwart the possibility of the
> paint peeling when fluid spills on it. It works fine on the race car, and
> I change fluid frequently (with the predictable spills that go along with
> 2 AM garage sessions). No paint-peel in over 4 years of trying. :-)
>
> To the original poster... I had the same problem that you experienced
> with the reserviuoir not sealing to the MC assembly. I too discovered that
> the sealing o-rings were sized improperly. I have noticed that some kits
> come with a thinner o-ring for that purpose. This happens to be a case
> where it's worth paying the extra money to get the right parts. DON'T SHOP
> ON PRICE ALONE.
>
> > Rick Or
> > 72 TR6
>
> regards,
> rml
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