Doug,
Some listers may differ from my approach, but I believe it is much easier
and less expensive to fix TR-6's mechanically (engines, suspension, brakes,
etc) then it is to fix them body and chassis wise. So I would much rather
find a sound body and chassis with several engine, suspension and brake
problems then the other way around. This will certainly be a small part of
a long list of other recommendations suggested. Nonetheless, if you are not
mechanically inclined then face the fact that in short order you will be by
the very virtue of owning a TR-6. If you do not own a good set of tools,
now is the time. A good start:
1. Rust along entire seam of rear fenders, particularly right behind the
door and the very upper back corner, and around the headlight area in front
fenders. Look for bubbling as it starts from the inside and works out
through the paint. Very common problem.
2. Also rust in the floorboards and door sills along the seams.
3. Chassis rot where the rear trailing arms attach to the chassis. Very
common. Gently tapping along the chassis rails with a small ball peen
hammer will reveal a dull thud sound versus a brighter metallic ping. Don't
be afraid to poke hard at suspect areas with a large screwdriver.
4. Damaged front lower a-arm brackets that are welded to chassis. These
often break when car is involved in a front end accident. Level of repair
can run the ganut from pro to amateur. Try to have an auto body shop check
out the chassis for straightness.
5. Worn transmission internals such as bearings and bushings that cause odd
noises and behaviors during shifting and idling. At worse case will ruin
gears.
6. Severe rust around the battery box due to leaking acid.
7. IF an overdrive is involved realize that most flat out non-operating
O/D's are due to fairly simple electrical problems.
8. Significant rear body squat during acceleration is a sign of a tired
suspension. In the gramd scheme of things not difficult to fix.
9. Clunking noise in rear during acceleration and shifting indicates four
U-joints in rear axles need to be replaced.
10. Rear axle mounting areas on chassis will crack and break due to
potholes and bushing wear that allows play and hammering of axle against
chassis mount during acceleration and shifting. Of four mount areas, left
rear and right front are most commonly in need of repair due to direction of
engine torque.
You may want to ask a lister in your area to assist you if you find a
promising TR-6 and want a second opinion from an experienced owner.
Good luck in your search!
Greg
CD6250L
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Warner" <dwarner@netsville.com>
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 20, 2003 6:31 PM
Subject: Issues that are no-go for purchase
> Hi folks,
> I'm looking to purchase a TR6.in the 4-7K range. I wondered what issues to
> look for as I begin my search.
>
> Doug Warner
> Global Account Manager
> RiverCity Communications,LLC
> 110 Halstead St. Suite 1
> Rochester, NY 14610
> 888-283-9668
> 585-288-8890
> 585-288-0203 fax
> 585-303-2701 cell
> Member: ACUTA
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