Don, and group---It stands to reason that a "softer" clutch would be
easier on the hardware that disengages it. The clutch fork pin, in
particular, wouldn't be so prone to break. Still, I had the same pin
thru the fork and operating shaft for 25+ years, using a variety of B&B
clutches without breaking a pin. I took this (original) pin out a few
times to check on it, found it shiny and what looked to be
work-hardened. It never broke. However, while in here to again change
the t/o bearing I decided to replace this pin with a new one. Probably a
mistake, as the new pin broke within a few months. It was then that I
added the second bolt. It is my opinion that I was either lucky, or the
replacement pins themselves are not as tough as whatever the factory
used. (A few I've seen had machine marks great enough to be a stress
riser.) Again, a clutch that has a lower clamping pressure wouldn't need
a pin with the same strength as when using a stronger clutch.
How "soft" can one go before clutch slippage sets in under acceleration?
Mr. Gunst recommends that we do not use the B&B with "cranked fingers"
but can't really say why. If the design of this type of diaphragm causes
the clutch to "whistle" why wouldn't all with this type do so?
The Gunst bearing operates in the same circle as the original RHP
bearing. I write this only to report, again, that my experience with
the cranked B&B clutch is smooth in operation, not unduly stiff to
operate (35 lb. of force at the pedal,) does not slip, and does not sing
or whistle at any time. This is my story, and I'm stuck with it!
Dick Taylor
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