Mark,
My TR6 was hard to start with the same conditions you have mentioned.
Rebuilding the carbs seemed to provide the greatest benefit, it starts just
fine now. About the same time I also discovered that the wiring was
improperly connected so that the coil wasn't getting full system voltage
when cranking. Another big improvement was the replacement of the very
tired Lucas starter with a gear-reduction type. Does your high-torque
starter include a solenoid which has a switch for bypassing the coil ballast
resistor when cranking (thereby allowing for full system voltage at the
coil)?
Gary
'73
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Bullard" <mbullard@verizon.net>
To: "6pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2003 7:12 PM
Subject: Backfire/starting
> Aloha All,
>
> 2) I've got a problem starting the car that is driving me crazy. After
I've
> driven it for 20 - 30 minutes and it's warmed up, if I stop briefly, it
won't
> start again until it cools down. This typically takes 25 - 30 minutes and
is
> causing significant frustration when it's a daily driver. I've replaced
the
> starter with a new high torque starter thinking it was the solenoid but no
> luck (anyone want to by an old lucas starter ;) I've had a couple of
people
> suggest a heat shield may be needed by the exhaust manifold but it's a
stock
> manifold and I'm not real sure why this would happen to some and not
others.
> I've also had it suggested that it might be my ignition that is faulty but
> don't know how to check this and I'm getting tired of buying parts without
> getting results. One other suggestion was "vapor lock" but I have no idea
on
> how to check this either. I've got a new Bosch Alternator that I haven't
> installed yet and plan to do so this weekend. I don't know if that will
help
> or not but any suggestions, as always, are certainly appreciated.
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