If you get to the point of having to take the hub out and the bolts show ANY
sign of wobble install heli-coils in all of them.
I had my trailing arms out and the helicoils took 30 min a side to install.
I jiged up the trailing arm from a low bench to the table saw and double
braced the drill. My only mistake was putting the same thread (5/16-28 or
NF) back in instead of the better NC style(sure hope I remembered the thread
pitch right)
Also it's very important to replace every one of the numts you remove with
new. The nyloc may look like it;s ok but they are allegedly good for one
tightening only.
If you want a look at what can happen to the trailing arm if things go wrong
look at the winter2002 page on my wee (www.kc4sw.com/triumph.htm)
Steve
tr6@kc4sw.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of michael lunsford
Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2003 5:51 AM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Outer Hub U joints
I saw only one item that should be added to the excellent advice furnished
to Curt Hoffman about replacing the outer rear hub u joints on his 6. That
is to be extremely careful when tightening the 5 (?) bolts that hold the
rear hub housing to the trailing arm. These bolts are tapped into the
aluminum trailing arm with fine threads and are prone to stripping. As a
matter of fact I would be suprised if you could get them loose without one
of them stripping out. Anyhow the torque on these bolts is suprisingly
small, if memory serves about 12 to 15 lbs. Just a note to be careful since
the threads in the trailing arm are a real PITA to fix once they are
stripped. Been there, done that.
Thanks to all who attended the TRF Summer Party for providing those of us
who didn't attend a vicarious (though dry) summary of their experiences.
Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR6
/// 6pack@autox.team.net mailing list
/// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
|