I would have guessed to do it wet too. How do you get an even bead --
all the same height? Maybe it doesn't have to be even?
Don
Neil Wehmeyer wrote:
> Thanks for the info. I was thinking the same thing about some RTV sealant
> for the bezel to glass seal. I am supprised you let it dry inside the bezel
> before assembly. I was thinking I would but them together and let the RTV
> squish out, then clean it from the glass. But, if it acn be build it up to
> the right height, your plan would be a lot less messy. I have had to bend
> the tabs on the one small gauge to get them apart. Had to bend the tabs on
> the big ones to get the glass out. Am I missing something, or is this what
> has to be done?
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mickylong@aol.com [mailto:Mickylong@aol.com]
> Sent: Friday, May 30, 2003 6:59 PM
> To: ngwehmeyer@attbi.com; 6pack@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: gauges
>
>
> Neil,
>
> I'm in the midst of rebuilding/cleaning my gauges so I'm familiar with the
> O rings both outside and inside the gauge. When I pulled my smaller gauges
> I found the material between the bezel and glass face to be almost welded to
> the bezel by 30 years in the sun. After scraping out the remains, and with
> lots of help from the list, I decided to try the O rings offered by VB that
> were advertised as a fit inside the bezel. However, I tried to fit these
> and found it almost impossible to remount the bezel to the glass with the O
> ring in place. Following another suggestion, I fashioned a seal on the
> inside of each bezel with blue RTV, let it dry and then refit the bezel to
> the glass. Fits great.
>
> I ordered the "outside" O rings to replace the "cooked" rubber between my
> gauges and dash from TRF, but haven't installed them yet. Tomorrow's the
> day. I'll post another message re: the fit and potential gauge offset after
> I try them tomorrow.
>
> Hope this helps
>
> Micky Long, Atlanta
> 72 TR 6
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