Dear Listers,
I am overwhelmed at the amount of generous, intelligent help you have
given me about my valve problem. Many thanks to you all, and when I identify
the problem I will post it. What great people.
In the meantime, even though I am a pretty dumb mechanic I have learned
several things about TR6's that may help somebody. So FWIW, here goes-
1. If you have just bought a TR6 that is real hard to start, the DPO may have
installed an incompatible coil, like my Lucas Sport coil. These coils can be
used if you bypass the ballast resistor in the wiring loom. Our friend Dan
Masters has posted the fix at http://www.vtr.org/maintain/ballast/html
Dan is da man.
2. If you can't get enough clutch arm travel no matter what you do, relace the
slave cylinder with a long throw cylinder from British Parts Northwest. They
sell lots of them, and it goes a long way to alleviate elongated holes in the
clevises. This is such an excellent thing to know you should write it down
and stick it in your toolbox.
3.If your voltmeter doesn't register, but the anti run-on valve comes on when
the key is in run, the DPO miswired the oil pressure switch.
4.If your car has sat for years with ancient gasoline in it,the inlet and
outlet valves in the fuel pump will be glued shut. Also the fuel tank sender
unit arm. A little carb cleaner and you're in business.
5.If there are two ways to wire something, and one of them is correct, the DPO
thought of a third way.
And if he stuck his pointy little head under the dashboard, you will be taking
many long , thoughtful walks. Not drives.
all for now,
Larry Brown
"74 TR6, or a very stable sculpture of one
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