NO!!! Synthetic will not allow the rings to seat in the cylinders. It's
too slippery. Stick with the Castrol 20W 50 and you will have not problems.
Depending on what your machine shop says, after 1,000 miles or so, you can
switch to synthetic if you truly want to. As for me, I've stuck to the
Castrol 20W50 in my rebuilt engine.
Eric
'76 TR6
'62 TR4
On Mon, 5 May 2003 10:04:37 -0400 "Wayne Ross" <rengrave@netzero.net>
writes:
> Listers,
>
> Not to open a can of worms but:
>
> What is the best oil to use in a newly re-built engine (TR6)?
>
> I have always used Castrol 20/50, but I have been hearing a lot
> about
> synthetic oil protecting the engine from wear better than the
> natural oil?
> Should I use a synthetic oil to "break-in" the newly re-built
> engine, and then
> keep using synthetic after the initial 500 miles?
>
> The reason I performed a re-build was a worn crankshaft, and I later
> found out
> that the camshaft was also worn (4 lobes bad, 4 tappets bad). And my
> rocker
> shaft was also worn with a few rockers sticking. Is there something
> I can do
> to reduce wear? Will synthetic protect the cam and crankshaft better
> than the
> Castrol GTX 20/50? I plan on using assenbly lube on all internal
> bearings,
> cams and oil pump (which is new). I don't really want to install an
> external
> oil feed line to the head due to the stories I have heard about to
> much oil on
> top of the engine could get into the valve guides and cause oil
> burning.
>
> I have an original spec engine (1973) with a Piper 270 cam. I have
> had an oil
> filter conversion adaptor for the last 10+ years, I plan on using a
> WIX
> filter.
> I am also installing a new pressure relief spring.
> The car will only be used as a street car.
>
> Wayne Ross
> Westport, MA
> 1973 TR6 (Mallard)
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