Hi Wayne,
I use Mobil 1 in all of my engines except the TR6. My understanding is
that the tolerances are not very tight as compared to newer tchnology
engines and it may blow by the rings/seals. It shouldn't hurt to try it
though. My concern is that it would probably get a fair share of fuel
mixed into the oil during warm-up and be an expensive propostion. I
attached a couple of links that might help to answer your questions.
http://www.amsoil.com/
http://www.mobil1.com/index.jsp
Good luck,
Jay in MA
============
On Mon, 5 May 2003 10:04:37 -0400 "Wayne Ross" <rengrave@netzero.net>
writes:
> Listers,
>
> Not to open a can of worms but:
>
> What is the best oil to use in a newly re-built engine (TR6)?
>
> I have always used Castrol 20/50, but I have been hearing a lot
> about
> synthetic oil protecting the engine from wear better than the
> natural oil?
> Should I use a synthetic oil to "break-in" the newly re-built
> engine, and then
> keep using synthetic after the initial 500 miles?
>
> The reason I performed a re-build was a worn crankshaft, and I later
> found out
> that the camshaft was also worn (4 lobes bad, 4 tappets bad). And my
> rocker
> shaft was also worn with a few rockers sticking. Is there something
> I can do
> to reduce wear? Will synthetic protect the cam and crankshaft better
> than the
> Castrol GTX 20/50? I plan on using assenbly lube on all internal
> bearings,
> cams and oil pump (which is new). I don't really want to install an
> external
> oil feed line to the head due to the stories I have heard about to
> much oil on
> top of the engine could get into the valve guides and cause oil
> burning.
>
> I have an original spec engine (1973) with a Piper 270 cam. I have
> had an oil
> filter conversion adaptor for the last 10+ years, I plan on using a
> WIX
> filter.
> I am also installing a new pressure relief spring.
> The car will only be used as a street car.
>
> Wayne Ross
> Westport, MA
> 1973 TR6 (Mallard)
|