Mark,
Did you or your buddies ever tie ballons to your bicycle frame so that they
rubbed against the spokes? It was really cool sounding if you could get
several ballons to work for awhile at one time.
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Riddle" <dunamis6@juno.com>
To: <dmallin@attglobal.net>; <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 16, 2003 8:04 PM
Subject: Re: Click in rear wheel
> Don,
> I'll just voice my opinion, for what it is worth.
> If the hubs have not been redone that you know of, it might be false
> economy to not have them done. As with anything on a 30 year old car,
> wear happens!
> That said, there are some conditionals to the above viewpoint. If I knew
> the history of the car (like owned for many years), or knew that it had
> been off the road for some time, or had a rebuild in the recent past,
> then rebuild could be overlooked in favor of attention in other areas of
> concern (u-joints, or ...).
> The one "click" per rotation is a very good clue though. I had loose
> bolts at the pinion flange, and there was more than just a click, but
> they were very loose, and frequency was not one to one. If this is the
> case it would indicate a problem located from the diff to the wheel, and
> not on the pinion side of the driveline.
> As you have observed, the bearings typically rumble or roar when they are
> worn. The wear in the TR hub is somewhat easy to gauge. As stated in most
> of the shop manuals, .002" endplay is the starting point, much more than
> that and it is probably a good idea to have it worked on. I do not know
> if there is a wear limit to that figure, it has not been something that I
> needed to know as of yet.
> I did reccently have one of my hubs redone (.010" endplay), and when I
> received it back, It seemed to have more play in it than before it was
> serviced. I checked the sideplay of the assembly with the wheel in place,
> and it had about 1/16" sideplay, and I realized that maybe I was being
> too critical of the clearance ( I work under a microscope to .0001" of an
> inch).
> TRF rebuilds them (mine took 8 weeks), and a place here in NC (I am
> sorry, but the name escapes me...maybe someone else could help here).
> The NC shop runs around $180, a reasonable figure (NFI), and TRF is
> around $250/hub, and they put new studs and a u-joint on. There are
> others I am sure, but I cannot recall them now.
> I hope you can locate the source of the click,
>
> If not whip out a "duece" from the deck, add wire wheels and a
> clothespin, drop the top, and roll. Maybe it wont be heard over the
> "fun".
>
> Cheers,
>
> Mark Riddle
> '72 TR6
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