I like stainless for some fasterners but would be careful where you use
them as I've seen them gall and become difficult to remove from the
associated thread surfaces. I think they are considerably softer than
grade 8 hardware.
I generally only use never-sieze products when dissimilar metals are
involved.
Lock washers are cheap but don't use cheap lock washers. What??? Buy
good quality lock washers, preferably made in the USA if you happen to
live in the states.
Just another opinion,
Jay
==========
On Fri, 25 Oct 2002 08:06:57 -0700 "Navarrette, Vance"
<vance.navarrette@intel.com> writes:
> Rich:
>
> I can't recommend the anti-seize route. My experience has
> been
> that things have a habit of backing out when anti-seize is used.
> I would recommend stainless fasteners to prevent the
> corrosion
> that tends to encourage things to seize, and then install the
> fasteners
> dry. They don't corrode so no seizing, and without the anti-seize
> they don't back out.
> Whatever you do, use fresh lock washers. They are cheap,
> and
> it is a pain to go back and do it over if things start to come
> loose.
>
> Just my preference though.
>
> I am sure there are other tricks out there that will work,
> and
> they will probably cost less.
>
> Vance
>
> ------------------------------
> 1974 Mimosa Yellow Triumph TR6
> Cogito Ergo Zoom
> (I think, therefore I go fast)
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Folks,
>
> These may be elementary question for some, but I'm not
> sure of the "right" answers.
>
> I'll be putting my newly ceramic coated intake &
> exhaust manifolds back on this car this weekend, and
> am replacing all of the studs.
>
> My question #1: for installling the studs into the
> block, what is the best procedure/tool? And should I
> use Loctite on the studs, regular anti-sieze, etc?
> (realizing the effect these lubricants have on torque
> settings)
>
> My question #2: Should I use any type of sealing
> compound on the manifold gasket around the intake
> ports?
>
> Thanks,
>
> William
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