Rich:
I can't recommend the anti-seize route. My experience has been
that things have a habit of backing out when anti-seize is used.
I would recommend stainless fasteners to prevent the corrosion
that tends to encourage things to seize, and then install the fasteners
dry. They don't corrode so no seizing, and without the anti-seize
they don't back out.
Whatever you do, use fresh lock washers. They are cheap, and
it is a pain to go back and do it over if things start to come loose.
Just my preference though.
I am sure there are other tricks out there that will work, and
they will probably cost less.
Vance
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1974 Mimosa Yellow Triumph TR6
Cogito Ergo Zoom
(I think, therefore I go fast)
-----Original Message-----
Folks,
These may be elementary question for some, but I'm not
sure of the "right" answers.
I'll be putting my newly ceramic coated intake &
exhaust manifolds back on this car this weekend, and
am replacing all of the studs.
My question #1: for installling the studs into the
block, what is the best procedure/tool? And should I
use Loctite on the studs, regular anti-sieze, etc?
(realizing the effect these lubricants have on torque
settings)
My question #2: Should I use any type of sealing
compound on the manifold gasket around the intake
ports?
Thanks,
William
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