The rebuilt bosch did the same for me without any accessories on so must
be normal.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of jay_welch@juno.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2002 9:39 AM
To: lang@isis.mit.edu
Cc: fasttrs@mindspring.com; 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: TR6 Alternator
Hi Bob,
The Lucas (GM style) alternator that we had rebuilt also put out 14+
volts so I don't think you have anything to worry about there. Normal
output is 13.5 to 14.5 volts. http://www.tpub.com/basae/33.htm
Good alternator site:
http://www.tpub.com/basae/
Jay
On Wed, 12 Jun 2002 09:25:01 -0400 (EDT) "Robert M. Lang"
<lang@isis.mit.edu> writes:
> Hi All,
>
> In a similar vein (to Mike Munson's post), my TR6's Lucas ACR 18
> more or
> less "gave up the ghost". Actually, it gave up a couple of years
> ago, I
> just kept driving it and watching the voltmeter to make sure there
> was
> enough "juice" to keep the electronic ignition running. This worked
> fine
> except for one trip from Mid-Ohio to Boston where there was a
> traffic jam
> in Hartford, CT (there's always a traffic jam in Harford, CT -
> unexplainedly, I might add). In that "jam", it was 11:00 PM, so I
> had the
> lights, CB, stereo cranking and the heat. The car "skipped" a beat
> or two,
> and I looked at the voltmeter - 11 volts! Turning off the headlights
> and
> the heater and stereo and CB made things come back... I proceeded
> without
> heat or sounds the rest of the 90 miles home without incident.
>
> At any rate, I just installed a huge Delco unit that happens to be
> the
> same as my tow vehicle (a 1/2 tonne Chevy van) and the install was
> pretty
> smooth. I did have to fabricate an upper bracket (actually, I bought
> a Mr.
> Gasket dress up chrome bracket and modified it by shortening it and
> drilling a locating hole for the end that attaches to the water pump
> housing. The only other mods were pretty simple - the swivel bracket
> on
> the front cover was about .25" too long to mount the belt flush, so
> we
> dismantled the unit and turned the cover on a lathe to get the
> proper
> location of the belt. The hole for the swivel on the GM product was
> made
> for a 3/8 bolt, so we fabricated a sleeve to neck down to 5/16. I
> had to
> buy a 4" 5/16 grade 8 bolt to actually mount the thing.
>
> Everything just bolted in after that.
>
> I now get 14+ volts at the battery at idle with all the accessories
> on,
> much better than 12.1 or whatever I was getting before.
>
> I am concerned that the output voltage is a bit high, but so far so
> good.
> We'll road test it starting tomorrow on the 700 mile trip to
> Mid-Ohio.
> THere's nothing like driving an untested car (rebuilt motor over the
> winter with under 100 miles on it) with a "new" electrical system -
> yes,
> I'm a bit nervous.
>
> On the plus side, I'm caravanning with a few other Triumph-iles from
> New
> England, and one has a trailer. On the minus side, if something does
> fail,
> I have to drive the tow vehicle (or the Spitfire). Yeow!
>
> Fingers crossed,
> rml
>
> p.s. if you see me broken down on the side of the road, be sure to
> wave. I
> have AAA-Plus, so if I make it to Akron - I'm there (to Mid-Ohio)!
>
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