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RE: Cracked diff mounts

To: Btp44@aol.com
Subject: RE: Cracked diff mounts
From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 11:57:12 -0500 (EST)
On Mon, 11 Mar 2002 Btp44@aol.com wrote:

> Maybe it is overkill, but when I repair a cracked diff mount, I cut an access 
> hole in the rear deck above the right front mount, remove the old stud and 
> weld the cracks usually found in the frame. Next, weld in a 4"X4"X 1/4" plate 
> that has been drilled for a new stud and weld the stud to the plate. The 
> access hole can be covered with sheet metal and pop riveted. 
> Berry Price
> Albany, OR

Well, it may sound like overkill, but it is sometimes necessary. Once the
big stud "wiggles" very much, the upper crossmember gets all sorts of
cracks in it.

The bottom line for this repair is that it is easier to remove the body
and do the job right, but circumstances sometimes preclude this
possibility.

As for hacking the body to gain access to the upper x-member, you can use
a thin cutting disk on a die grinder to open things up and then using your
best MIG welding technique weld things back together with a butt-type
weld. This takes practice, but is preferable to laying sheet metal over
the hole. Especially if you want to avoid rust/water intrusion in the
future. 

regards,
rml
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