Hugh,
I second all of Mark's info except for one detail. I prefer to use a 12
volt test light instead of a multimeter on almost all automotive DC
systems . The reason is that a weak ground may test OK on a meter, but
as soon as a load is applied (like the bulb in the light) the circuit
breaks down. That led to lots of head scratching (and cursing) in the
past.
Pay special attention to the bullet connecters behind the grille, near
to the drivers side bumper bracket.
Good luck, Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Riddle" <dunamis6@juno.com>
To: <hfader@usa.net>; <triumphs@autox.team.net>; <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2002 11:26 AM
Subject: Re: Troubleshooting TR6 horn
> Hugh,
> 1. Check the "brush", located under the horn button. It should show
> continuity when checked with an ohm meter (one probe to each end).
> 2. Using the ohm meter, check the "steering wheel" to ground
connection.
> It should read near zero. Check this from a point where the outer
> diameter of the horn button contacts the steering column.
> 3. If the "steering wheel" does not read continuity to zero, check the
> "jumper wire", located at the rubber coupling next to the brake
booster.
> It should be connected from the top shaft, coming from the steering
> wheel, across the "joint", and to the lower shaft, that goes to the
> steering rack. It should show continuity across the joint. Also check
to
> see if the lower end is connected to "ground", using the meter. If
both
> ends of the jumper wire (still in place), show continuity to ground,
then
> the problem is back toward the steering wheel. If not then the problem
is
> toward the steering rack end.
>
> At the rack end:
>
> There is a wire located under the "grease port" on the rack. That wire
> should also show continuity to ground. It leads into the wiring
harness
> and finally to one of the ground points at the front of the engine
bay.
>
> At the steering wheel end:
>
> If the "steering wheel" checks OK to ground, and the "brush" has
> continuity through it, then the problem lies in the wiring from the
horn
> "relay" to the "slip ring". You
> should show continuity from the "slip ring" to the terminal on the
horn
> relay - The same terminal that you grounded earlier in order to check
the
> function of the relay itself. If you do not show continuity, then this
is
> where the problem is - in the wire leading from the relay to the slip
> ring.
>
> HTH, and Good Luck
>
> Mark Riddle
> "72 TR6 Restoration underway
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