Greetings list,
For those who simply refuse to mark their parking spots, or don't
care about keeping the engine and drive train rust-free, I would suggest
using the Hylomar HPF. I used it on most gasket surfaces during the
rebuild of my 6 last spring and after almost 4,000 miles I'm very
impressed at the way the oil stays inside the engine........
One thing to keep in mind is to not apply it too thick. After a
couple minutes it seems to almost flow out to a smoother, flatter
consistancy than when it's first put on.
As for the gent who was asking about the fool-proof way of sealing
the valve cover gasket I did the following:
After a good cleaning of the valve cover gasket surface, use regular
RTV silicone sealant between the gasket and the cover. Set the cover on
a clean bench top or other flat surface with the gasket side down and
put a little weight on top of the cover overnight until the sealant
dries. Then, after cleaning the gasket surface on the engine head, apply
a light coating of the hylomar HPF on the bottom gasket surface, and
assemble the cover. The Hylomar won't set up hard, but will seal the
gasket AND make removal easy when adjusting valves, etc. Next time you
remove the cover from the engine, the gasket will remain in the cover.
After cleaning the head surface again, you can simply apply a bit more
of the Hylomar and seat the gasket again. One word of caution- don't
overtighten the nuts on the valve cover or you can warp the sealing
surface and make all of what I just wrote null and void. I bought some
stainless steel wing-nuts for mine and I just make sure they're snug
from time to time. Plus, wing-nuts belong on my car, seeing as there's
one behind the wheel !
Now, if they could just make rear seals out of the same material as
the Hylomar, life would be even better......
Good Luck,
Kevin Thompson
Cape Cod British Car Club
CF55588U+O in hybernation Zzzzzzzz
|