Hi Peter,
There should be no movement between the fork and the shaft. I've seen
several cases recently where the head of the clutch fork pin bottoms on the
clutch fork boss before the pin fits tightly in the hole in the shaft. The
solution I've used is to grind the boss down some, maybe an eight of an inch
or so to allow the taper pin to screw in further.
I agree with Dick Taylor, the insurance of an additional bolt, roll pin or
taper pin is worth the effort. The hole for bolt or pin should be drilled
after the taper pin is tightened such that there is no movement between the
fork and shaft.
I always replace the oil seal if it's more than a couple years old. Not
sure it's worth the effort though because there always seems to be at least
one leak under my TRs. If there isn't one at the moment, wait a week.
Nelson Riedel
Granville Ohio
'68TR250, '70TR6, '76TR6
----- Original Message -----
From: <P.H.Z@12move.nl>
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2001 2:48 PM
Subject: Clutch repair
| Hello everybody,
| I'm busy with repairing a sticky clutch. I bought a new crosshaft and
release
| fork and Pin. Is it normal when you put them together there is a litle
| movement possible? I've been told that you should not overtighten the
pin. I
| read on the Buckeye internet site that it's possible to drill a hole in
the
| fork/shaft to put in a extra bolt! Is this a smart thing to do? Finally, I
| bought a second hand gearbox front cover, shouls you alwyas replace the
oil
| seal? Or is it save to leave it alone? (it looks ok!)
| Kind regards,
| Peter
| Tr6 '74
|
|
|