I expect that someone might disagree, I don't have the extensive automotive
experience that james has and I suppose I must be living right but on four
different occasions (four dry MC's) I never bench bled them One having the
anti-lock system.
sorry for the bad info Guys.
Brooks
Atlanta Ga
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>
To: "Brooks Bullock" <airsmyth@covad.net>
Cc: "Six pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2001 2:15 AM
Subject: Re: Brakes
> I have to disagree with Brooks. Bench bleeding the master cylinder is
> always required on a new master cylinder. Whichever method you use to
> bleed the wheel cylinders, however is up to choice, albeit Spousal,
> pressure, vacuum, etc.
>
> I have had bad flexible hoses that made bleeding difficult...... it
> seems that 20 plus year old flexible brake hose can swell inside, making
> it difficult to get adequate fluid to the wheels, and a soft pedal.
>
> A leaky master can also be the culprit. It'll bypass inside without an
> external evidence of a leak, but won't function properly.
>
> Dick, I believe the way the conversion people address rear brake
> pressure is to install an adjustable in-line valve that relieves some
> pressure to alleviate early lock-up of the rear brakes. Summit Racing
> sells them for 60 bucks or so.
>
> Jim
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Brooks Bullock" <airsmyth@covad.net>
> To: "Sullivan, John G, SOBUS" <sullij@ATT.COM>; "6 Pack List (E-mail)"
> <6pack@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2001 3:51 AM
> Subject: Re: Brakes
>
>
> > John:
> >
> > I would sometimes struggle with those brakes in the solo mode and one
> > particular time was at my wits end trying to accomplish this task ,
> then
> > someone strongly suggested using a hose in a jar with enough fluid to
> keep
> > it submerged and leaving the bleeder screw open throughout the
> process.(as
> > described in nearly every maintenance manual). As it turned out on the
> first
> > try, it worked perfectly. I have never tried it any differently since,
> no
> > longer worry with bench bleeding and have no trouble bleeding brakes
> solo
> > anymore. I just have to start with a little more fluid in the
> beginning.
> >
> > always glad to chat about six's
> >
> > Brooks
> > Atlanta GA
> > 74&76 six's
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Sullivan, John G, SOBUS" <sullij@ATT.COM>
> > To: "6 Pack List (E-mail)" <6pack@autox.team.net>
> > Cc: <sullij@att.net>
> > Sent: Monday, November 19, 2001 10:23 AM
> > Subject: Brakes
> >
> >
> > > Ok, I do need some help! Hard to admit.
> > >
> > > I have been working on may brakes for a month or two. I have
> replaced the
> > > wheel cylinders and shoes on the rear, the master cylinder and
> installed
> > > rebuilt calipers from TRF. Now I have replaced the fluid with DOT 5
> > > (silicon): However, I can't seem to get the brakes bleed.
> > >
> > > I am using the miti vac tool, starting at the right rear, then left
> rear,
> > > right front, right front. I most cases I am getting 50 lbs of vacuum
> > before
> > > I open the bleed screw. I then close the screw and rebuild the
> vacuum.
> > > Initially I didn't see any fluid making it down to the wheel, now I
> do,
> > but
> > > still lots of air. I asked my wife Jane to work the pedal and tried
> the
> > old
> > > fashion way and get the same results.
> > >
> > > Am I not being patient enough? I can't see the pwda as an issue;
> although,
> > I
> > > didn't remove or rebuild it.
> > >
> > > I do remember doing my clutch hydraulics and after a good period I
> could
> > > feel the system "firm up." I have more that than nothing because
> when I do
> > > press the pedal the shoes/calipers expand.
> > >
> > > Any comments are appreciated.
> > >
> > > John
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