Jim:
I know that Dick will have a good answer for you but here's what I found
when I rebuilt the carbs on my '69 TR6 earlier this year: Unless the top of
the carb is absolutely seated properly it can cause binding of the air
piston, from a little to the piston being downright stuck. I'd check by
lifting each one that both pistons operate freely and, if not, loosen the
top screws a bit on the offending carb and make adjustments as necessary.
Also, the piston diaphragm may be off a bit in it's seat in the carb body.
You can check that the tab in the rubber diaphragm is properly seated in
it's corresponding notch in the carb body.
I hope this helps.
Best regards,
Walt Fogle
'69 TR6, CC30689L
Woodinville, WA
>
>Dick, as usual you are right again. The carb piston on the carb that is
>backfiring (once in a while) on acceleration does appear to lag behind
>(just
>slightly) than the other carb. What adjustment would be made to the
>linkage
>that would affect the movement of only one carb' piston? The linkage that
>joins both carbs is tight.
>Thanks
>Jim
>75 Tr6
>80 TR7
>Kissimmee, FL
>
>
>
>Sally or Dick Taylor wrote:
>
> > Jim---A weak spark on any cylinder could cause the backfire, as this
> > (sparkplug) came back on line. Since you didn't have this before, let's
> > assume that the new carbs are out of sync somewhere.
> >
> > With the air cleaner off, see if both of the carb pistons rise equally
> > as you raise the rpm by hand. (Hopefully it won't backfire in your
> > face!) If they don't rise equally, the problem is likely in the linkage
> > where both carbs are joined. If they DO rise equally, the needles may be
> > not flowing the same amount of fuel. (Here, the Haynes would come in
> > handy) If you know your way around inside of these carbs, it's not hard
> > to even them up with the adjustment screw down inside the damper tube.
> > If this is Greek to you, better wait for the Haynes Manual, as all this
> > is explned with pictures and a step-by-step.
> >
> > Major auto suppy stores carry stuff to spread between exhaust pipes to
> > stop the leaks, so you don't have to weld them shut. Try to avoid
> > welding, as a lot of repairs calls for removing the exhaust, and you'll
> > want to do this in sections.
> >
> > Dick T.
> > '73
>
>--
>Jim Henningsen
>email:jdhenn@cfl.rr.com
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