You bet your sweet bippy. The voltage stabilizer/regulator regulates the
voltage so that natural increases and decreases in voltage in the rest of
the system do not make the temp and fuel gauge bounce all over the place,
ergo stay constant. If both gauges are erratic or nonfunctional start
there. I had to replace the one on my 76 a couple of months ago.
Fortunately I got one from my father-in-laws old parts car and it works.
Don't think they are very expensive though.
Just take the speedo out, two knurled nuts hold it to the back of the
fascia, and unplug all the wires, lights and speedo cable. Replace the
voltage stabilizer/regulator and plug everything back in. If the wiring
harness is not modified it will help you get everything back where it
belongs. Just remember the blue wire is headlights. Don't forget to hook
up the ground wire under one of the knurled nuts. Piece of cake.
If you are just looking for something else to do, pull the speedo cable and
recoat it with petroleum jelly. Don't put so much on that it gets into the
speedo. It can alter the reading.
There's plenty of room for more registrations at Trials next week end.
Come on down. We guarantee a good time.
John Phillips, Claremore, OK
Green Country Triumphs & Jaguar Enthusiasts Club
76 TR6 CF51655 74 TR6 CF 15694
89 XJS Convertible
http://www.greencountrytriumphs.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: Frank Bart [mailto:frankbart@erols.com]
Sent: Friday, September 07, 2001 7:04 AM
To: John Phillips
Cc: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Response Digest - , Frank Temp trouble
Thanks John
I'll have to open it up this weekend.
I notice from my diagram the supply leads for the Temp and Fuel gauge come
from the voltage regulator on the back of the Speedo. What exactly does
this thing do to the current? My Fuel gauge also always reads almost full
and returns to empty when the key is off. Could these problems be related?
> Frank,
> Check the temp gauge from the sending unit back. Connect a voltage
tester,
> I use a simple light with an alligator clip and a probe, to the engine and
> the wire that connects to the sending unit. If you have power the problem
> is most likely the sending unit. If no power trace the circuit back until
> you find power. Check each connection. This way you can determine if you
> have a component problem or a wire problem. Works for me. And it is
> simple. Unless the dash gets in the way.
Yes, I'm thinking about putting a piano hinge on the bottom of the dash.
;-)
Frank Bart
72 TR6
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