Just a note on Webers, for the poor guys that could not tune them, there
problem was without even looking at them, there is a good change they had
the junk cannon linkage set up.
I know how junk they are, cause I inherited one with my triple setup, and a
cannon intake, that I added enough aluminum to its connection mount, RE
contoured for a perfect fit, and of course polished on the interior for
smooth flow, that I put though out the whole intake, AND exhaust.
It is the.... LINKAGE,,,,,, that will MAKE or BREAK, the system, no matter
what carbs, or how many past 1, and especially with 3,
On the linkage for the Webers, you must have all three of Eye's LINE UP for
the connecting rod, so that the rod can turn freely.
The carbs are VERY, VERY SIMPLE, the problem is there are so many variables,
or ways to play with them, and most people, my self included, ended up
listening to all this talk about all the different ways of tuning some
else's motor from people who have spread bad, or poor rumors.
Another miss fortune, most get talked into, is changing the choke tubes,
because some racer told them, that this is the way to go, NOT ON a STREET
machine.
Your Idle jet is the most important, to get right FIRST, not only
responsible for starting, and idling, but is responsible for..... 80 % of
your driving.
Peek adjustment should be between.... 1/2 and 1 turns out, from close. 11/2
turns out is now getting a little small, or simply telling you to go up one.
I have peek idle at 3/4, meaning this is the perfect jet in place, FOR ITS
CURRENT state of tune.
Anybody that can see color, or can read a plug, can determine if you need to
go up, or down on the main jet size, by simply taking for drive, and pulling
a plug.
My 12 year old saw the light colored plug and made the call to go up two
sizes, he was right, and we have been in the light amber color ever since.
The main jets take an average of two / three minutes to change per body, and
no more than ten for all three.
Don
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