Chris:
I hate that you are still having problems.The fact that your ignition light
is illuminated dim is more than likely that your ignition circuit is
energized with the switch off (bad ignition switch?) which might explain
your battery drain that you were experiencing. I don't know if your
ignition,oil(dim normally) and brake light was functioning prior to these
troubles? so if they weren't, your ignition coil was consuming your battery
without you being aware of it. Also I wouldn't put all of my faith in the
accuracy of that voltmeter,once you have corrected the light problem I would
place a digital multimeter on the battery itself and see what the volts
indicate with the jumper cables on and off of a known good battery. Even
after being charged for a good period, I expect that the old drained battery
might not be too healthy after setting empty for so long. if it still
indicates 12vdc or thereabout, I would check that there is power at the
large terminal(large brown wire) anytime that the battery is connected if
not look at the brown connections in the middle of the main battery cable.
after that have the overhaul facility take a second look at there regulator
install for the lack of sensing the system voltage.
Also by you describing that your light extinguish's after it is running
is a good indication that everything internal of the alternator is wired
correct as far as the light is concerned. And yes that is correct that the
brown with the yellow tracer wire installs furthest to the right when
viewing the rear of unit. however you should not have any voltage on that
wire with the key off. Using a trouble light or multimeter check for voltage
at the disconnected wire of the igniton coil or connected white wire at the
fuse block.Aside from the possibility of a bad ignition switch, on the
fuseblock look for any resistive connections between the purple\brown
term.(hot buss) and white\green term(igniton sw.)if on your car they are
next to each other, it might be possible to make the light glow but by being
resistive keep the engine from running with the ignition switch in the off
position.
I hope this helps, it's the best I can do without being there.
Brooks
Atlanta Ga
74 & 76 TR6
76 Spitfire
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Kincer" <KincerC@abcbank.com>
To: "6packlist (E-mail)" <6pack@autox.team.net>; "Triumphs-Owner (E-mail)"
<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2001 10:09 AM
Subject: FW: Alternator, Ignition Light
> Ok, got my alternator back from being rebuilt. Hooked everything back up,
> jumped the car off because the battery was flat dead. Car kept running
once
> I unhooked jumper cables. I thought that was a good sighn, but my volt
> meter is only showing close to 12 volts. If I let the car die it would
not
> start back up without jumping off. Put a charger on the battery all day
> yesterday. Installed in the car and it started no problems. Still only
> getting close to 12 volts. I fiddled with my igniton light and now it
stays
> on when the key is out of the ignition, but will go off when the car is
> started. What gives? Could have I hooked up the alternator wrong? The
> light going on and off corresponds with the furthest right brown wire with
> yellow stripe. If hooked up the ignition light will glow with the key
off.
> Any ideas would be much appreciated.
> Chris Kincer
> 73 TR6
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