Jay:
To keep your starting operation reliable I would recommend that you jump
those two wires one way or another.once you have accomplished that the
module could be removed and you would be done.
I chose to open my buzzer up and bridge the back of the two pins(11 & 12)
with solder for WR and WO. and reassembled with #4 screws and nuts. What
better place to stow that plug than the original place that it was plugged
into.plus you don't have to molest your harness or worry about a jumper
taped into the plug. I chose to keep my buzzer working on the key\door
warning (for originality only). If you really just didn't want to hear it
again you could just clip the buzzer off the pc board and reassemble the
unit.
Currently it sounds as though one of the circuits stemming from the
buzzer(seat belt, key/door ajar) has found a resistive ground. The key\door
ajar circuit seeks a ground through the door jamb to the side of the
ignition switch I have had problems with the switch in the side of the IGN
SW causing my buzzer to sound faint when it should have been loud and
annoying.
Good Luck with whatever you choose.
Brooks
Atlanta GA
74 TR6
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jay Snavely" <jays@paonline.com>
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>; "Triumphs" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2001 9:57 PM
Subject: TR6 Seatbelt Module
> I noticed the seatbelt module started making a faint whining noise when I
> reconnect the battery and when I shut the car off. My first idea was to
> unplug it, but I quickly discovered that prevents the starter relay from
> functioning. I'm not sure if the module is failing or if that is normal.
> Dan Masters' book mentions jumping the WR and WO wires to enable the
> starter. Is this the only action required to permanently remove the
module
> from the eletrical system? My seatbelt switches have already been
bypassed.
> Thanks.
>
> Jay Snavely
> 74 TR6
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