Dan and Dick,
thanks for you responses!
Last night I was checking my manual and got a little confused about just
the oil pressure warning light that came on in my car. The brake failure
light was not lit?? (I'm pretty sure the car is wired the 'original
way'; the electrical scheme isn't that hard to understand on this
subject).
So this weekend I'm checking my car some more and let you know (maybe
the oil pressure and brake failure warning lights are interchanged).
If you happen to know any alternative way on testing the oil pressure
switch (without the need of some compressed air equipment), please let
me know.....
Frank Meert
TR6 '70
DANMAS@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 2/12/2001 4:47:45 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> tr6taylor@webtv.net writes:
>
>
>
>
>> If you have
>> the older switch I'm not real sure how to test it, but would assume
>> that
>> the red lead would be placed on the only switch leg, and the black
>> lead
>> grounded on any part of the switch body. Same test--air pressure
>> should
>> make the switch close and reading go to infinity
>
> .
>
> Frank and Dick,
>
> On the 1970 TR6, the oil pressure sitch is a simple on-off switch,
> with the
> body of the switch providing the ground. When the oil pressure is low,
> the
> switch is closed, and the white/brown wire connected to it is also
> grounded.
>
> Frank, when your oil light came on, I'm assuming the brake failure
> light also
> came on? It should have, if your car is wired as it left the factory.
> If not,
> I'd be interested in how your car is wired. The brake failure light is
> one of
> the large red lights between the speedo and the tach, while the oil
> light is
> the small light located in either the tach or the speedo (I don't
> remember
> which one right off, as I no longer have the stock gauges in my car).
>
> If it were actually the brake failure light that went on (and
> sometimes the
> lights have lost their labeling, making it hard to tell what is what),
> then
> you have a problem with the PDWA.
>
> Pull the white/brown wire from the pressure switch and touch it to
> ground
> (with the key on). If all is as it should be, both lights will come
> on.
>
> As for testing the switch itself, Dick's compressed air test will
> work, if
> you can rig up a method of getting the air to the switch, as it's a
> male
> threaded body, and will have to be removed from the car. With presure,
> the
> ohms reading should be infinite, and with no pressure, the reading
> should be
> zero.
>
> If none of this makes any sense, let me know, and I'll send you a
> diagram off
> list explaining it - it ain't easy to explain in an e-mail.
>
> Dan Masters
> Alcoa, Tennessee
>
> Triumph TR 250 - TR6 Electrical Maintenance Handbook:
> http://members.aol.com/danmas6/
> Stuffing a V8 into a small British sports car:
> http://members.aol.com/danmas/
> British V8 Newsletter:
> http://members.aol.com/danmas4/mgv8.htm
|